California II--North of San Francisco

April 29-May 2, 2003





As you drive north of San Francisco, everything about California changes--the towns get smaller, the traffic (mercifully) lightens up, and there's much more of a middle America sense to the countryside. Willits, a small town about a hundred miles up the coast, feels about as far from Los Angeles as Brunswick, Maine.

    One important note about the geography of the west coast--it's easy to drive north and south but forget trying to go west to east along the way. It's these mountains, see, and what few east-west roads there are all have these little dots beside them on the map which the legend says means "scenic route" but which really means "only a complete idiot would try to drive a forty foot RV on this twisty, up one side of the mountain and down the other, road."

In fact, our Professional Truckers Atlas, which shows truck routes in every state, doesn't identify a single east-west route in California north of San Francisco.

    So because we were headed for Eureka on the northern California coast to see Mary's cousin, Tony Weiner, we missed the interior valleys and much of the famous wine country. But we saw something even more impressive--


 

    I have never been emotional about trees; having lived most of my life in Maine, I have always valued the forest, but have assumed a certain level of harvesting as being part of the natural order of things. But the California redwoods are different--in size, age, and sheer presence.

    For the first time, I can understand why these trees have been the center of so much controversy.












Driving through here was an almost religious experience--like being in a gigantic, outdoor cathedral; even the kids instinctively quieted down.



 



    I realize that I'm treading on dangerous ground here, but somehow the idea of cutting down something that takes five hundred years to grow back (there are some over 2,000 years old)  just doesn't seem right. It's like we're taking something away in our one measly generation which doesn't really belong to us.

    I still believe in the use of trees (don't worry, I haven't become a druid)--for lumber, paper, and as a legitimate source of jobs and economic development--but maybe there should be a distinction between those which can come back in a single generation (like the spruce-fir forest of the northeast) and these giants which take hundreds o
f years to mature.




    Mom and Molly at the edge of a rain-swollen stream in a beautiful state park amidst the redwoods.











The days we were in this area were rainy--they'd had 10 inches in a week--and mudslides had closed roads in all directions. Here's one which had just been cleaned up; apparently CalTrans (the California DOT) was used to this--they were on the spot with bulldozers and dump trucks about the time the dirt stopped moving.





    From Willits, we drove through the redwoods west to the coast (in the car) and found a beautiful beach in a little town called Ft. Bragg--


--where Molly and Ben explored and built sand castles and Mom couldn't resist a nap in the sun.







The only thing is, the ocean is on the wrong side; isn't it just like Californians to arrange for sunsets over the ocean instead of having to wake up 5:00 am like we do to get the same view?


 

    And then we came around a corner and would have sworn we were back in Maine (except for that ocean on the wrong side thing)--we were in Mendocino, a town that looks so much like New England that they filmed "Murder She Wrote" here instead of in Maine where it was supposed to be. (Boy did Maine people get a hoot out of the pitiful attempts at downeast accents in that show).

    This unique sculpture--called Time and The Maiden--is on top of the Masonic Hall (now a bank) on Mendocino's main street and was supposedly carved from a single piece of redwood back in the 1880's. I'm not sure what Time is about to say to her (he seems to be tapping her on the shoulder), but I don't think it's good news.







    The day we were in town, there was some kind of antique sports car rally going on and the place was full of amazing cars--Ferraris, vintage Porsches, Jags, and this beauty which I couldn't identify except that it was Italian and gorgeous.




    Big Moment--the first trimming of The Beard. I was starting to feel more like Gabby Hayes than Sean Connery, so dropped into Mitch's barber shop on the main corner of Mendocino. You've got to love a town that has a barber shop on it's equivalent of Times Square. Notice the pictures on the walls--I think Mitch has a a snapshot of every head he ever cut.

    He was a big Raiders fan (not all that many people have a picture of Al Davis on their wall) and had moved to Mendocino from Oakland twenty-five years before. Made sense to me.




    Rainbow on the way back to Willits from Mendocino; spectacular country.  Mary and I are non-stopped overwhelmed by the constantly changing landscape we have experienced over the last four months. If pressed, I really wouldn't be able to pick a favorite, but I sure am glad we have had a chance to try.

    The kids are less impressed and have started to "Ooh-Ahh" derisively whenever we get carried away by the views. Little darlin's.




    We then headed north towards Eureka to see Mary's cousin Tony (whom I've known for years, as well). Along the way, we got a taste of the northern California-Oregon coast which is right up there with Maine's (and for me, that's saying a lot).



The difference is that whereas we have the wooded and rocky islands, they have just plain rocks. It's an entirely different feel--wild, somewhat threatening, and really beautiful.



    Driving along here is a little exciting; the secret is to just take your time and remember to pull over every now and then and let the people behind you pass.

    It seemed that everyone we talked to before the trip had a "stuck behind an RV" story, so I have been ultra conscious of not being an obstruction. Fortunately, the road builders out here put in lots of pull-over spaces for just such occasions.





     Of course, no trip in and among the redwoods would be complete without a drive-through tree. This one at a private park in Leggett, California is over 300 feet tall and about 2000 years old. You should have seen the road down into the park; "Sure you can make it," the lady at the gate said, "we have tour busses in here all the time." Tour  busses of leprechauns, maybe. It's amazing we're not still there.




 
    And finally, we got to Eureka, had a great visit with Tony and his puppy dog Mitch, and visited Ferndale, a wonderfully preserved Victorian town where Molly found this life-size doll house.



    From here, it's further up the coast to Oregon, which in many ways--certainly including geography and economics--most closely resembles Maine. We'll see some spactacular country, but perhaps more importantly, visit with some of our oldest friends.











    Mary's closing picture--three views of the coast in one shot. See you next week.