Oregon
The Coast, The Capitol, and The Carousel
May 2-10, 2003
The Oregon coast is something else--high green
bluffs, jagged rocks (often as not covered by seals), and constant surf.
Here, Ben looks down from Point Arego, about twenty miles north of our campsite
at a state park in Bandon. Mary's cousin Tony had suggested this stop, and
he was sure right.
We got to Bandon (a couple of hours from the California
border, just south of Coos Bay) on a Friday afternoon and settled down to
wait for Steve and Mary Ickes who were coming down from Salem in their camper
to meet us. " Mary P." (Polacheck) and "Mary H." (Herman) have been
friends since they were babies in Milwaukee (that's babies, not babes--they're
still babes).
Settling
down, in this case, meant a campfire and dinner under the stars. Here, the
Author is doing research on current events while the Young Master tends the
fire. There was a great deal of discussion about who was the better fire
builder; by some quirk, Ben prevailed. The vote was 3 to 1; pesky democracy.
Saturday was a big date for us--Ben's 13th birthday. A tradition
in Mary's family is a birthday morning coffee cake with candles--served on
an ancient rotating plate with a built-in music box which plays "Happy Birthday"
sometimes and "Lullaby and Goodnight" others. It's a little strange, but
who am I to question family traditions?
Steve,
Mary P., Mary H., and Molly check out one of the posters explaining what
we were seeing along the coast. At this stop, there were about a thousand
seals on the rocks right off shore, all talking at once. I think they were
complaining about the price of coastal real estate.
We caravanned with the Ickes up to Salem Sunday afternoon--Ben with me in
the RV, Steve in their RV, and the two Marys and Molly in our car. This gave
us a chance to try out our two-way radios between the three vehicles, and
they worked slick. Steve acted as tour guide, pointing out the sights along
the way (and there were lots); I supplied the bad jokes. The only bad moment
was when the radio suddenly came to life and Steve said, "I know there's
a tunnel up ahead, but I just can't remember how tall it is." Way to make
a bus driver nervous; it turned out to be no problem.
On the way, we passed through Coos Bay (in Oregon,
it's Cooz, as in Bob Cousy's nickname; in New Hampshire, it's Cu-oz, as
in nothing else I can think of), Charleston, and Florence--all towns which
bear a haunting resemblance to towns along the northeast coast of Maine.
With once-thriving economies based upon lumber and fishing, they now struggle
to survive; the great mills mostly silent and the boats few.
Tourism provides some relief, but it's seasonal, and
the promise of high tech plays itself out in the more urban areas. It's
hard to see the future of these towns, but I can't help but believe that
it's somehow wrapped up with the sea--as the ultimate amenity which will
eventually attract the people whose presence will bring the jobs.
This is already happening in the mid-Maine coast; I
wish it would hurry up in Coos Bay and Eastport.
Once
in Salem, we spent a day in Silver Falls State Park-- a spectacular place
about 45 minutes out of town. There are about dozen falls in the park, all
along a beautiful set of well-maintained trails.
It
was almost like a rain forest--including trees completely covered by moss.
It was really a neat place--Molly and I even saw a snake and a giant slug
(I'll spare you the pictures, but I have them. Molly insisted).
Nice shot by Mary Ickes; Ben
was already half way up the trail, as usual. I've mentioned the National Parks
before, but we've also found great state parks along the way, as well. Some
of them--like this one and Dead Horse Point in Utah--were really outstanding
and are generally much less crowded than the better known Nationals. They
are also usually good places to camp--often on the water, economical, and
almost always clean and well maintained.
People have asked about the beard; the thing to know
is that I didn't intend to grow one. I just decided not to shave. A subtle
difference, I realize, but important nonetheless.
How's
this for for a perfect waterfall?
And here's Molly
on the trail underneath it.
Salem
has the most wonderful carousel--not an antique, but brand new, with horses
hand carved by local artists. It was a true community project and the day
we were there, it was getting a good work-out by kids of all ages. In case
you're wondering, yes, I was on a horse to get this shot. It was fun.
Mary Ickes is a fabulous cook
and here, Molly gets a valuable lesson in pie crust-making. The result was
great.
Another stop in Oregon
was Nike in Beaverton. All of the buildings in the amazing Nike complex (about
6,000 people work there) are named for famous athletes like Bo Jackson, Michael
Jordan, and, of course, Maine's own Joan Benoit Samuelson. Here, Mary and
Molly pose with Mary Seabright who works at Nike and (you guessed it) is married
to Mary's cousin Mark. That's Joanie with the flag.
And this was a big (and
hard) day; we put the RV on the market in anticipation of returning home in
mid-June. This is the shot I put up on RVSearch.com. We'd love to keep it,
but can't figure out when we'd use it. The kids have to get back into school
which only leaves summers to travel and who wants to leave Maine in the summer?
Anybody who wants a great deal on a wonderful home on wheels, check out the
site and let me know.
Ain't she beautiful? And you should hear the SurroundSound.
And finally, on our way north to Washington, we took the stunning drive up
the Columbia River Gorge and looped around Mt. Hood. As you can see, spring
hasn't exactly overwhelmed the area; what a spectacular spot.
And almost as spectacular is
the Timberline Lodge. Built in the mid-thirties as a WPA project, this is
an extraordinary place. The workers were mostly local people who needed work
during the depression and they achieved an amazing blend of utilitarian architecture
(it's a very comfortable ski lodge) and home-grown Art. We want to come back.
See what I mean about
Art? The place is full of these wonderful carvings, many done by people who
were carpenters or laborers with no special training (except on the job).
One of the premises of the leaders of the project was that everyone has the
capacity for art in them, if given an opportunity to express it. They sure
proved it here.
And so we say good-bye to Oregon and the Wal-Mart parking lot where we spent
the last night. Wal-Mart, as you may know, has a policy of letting RVers park
overnight in their lots, which comes in real handy when you can't find a
campground or it's too late to do all the setting-up. Naturally, we did some
shopping (they have a great selection of RV supplies) as well; these guys
didn't get to be the biggest store in the world by being stupid.
Now it's on to Washington and the third and final Right Turn. We even stopped
at Mt. St. Helen's; what a blast. Sorry.